MAMA LUISA'S,

Restaurant prices in Newport sometimes seem geared toward residual Vanderbilts, so it's refreshing to come across a place like Mama Luisa's. The menu offers both inexpensive options and trust-fund fare. The "vegetable medley" appetizer ($4.95) presented interesting variations on bozanna and caponata. The scaloppine aceto balsamico ($13.95) also proved to be a wonderful change from a marsala sauce, as the butter and balsamic vinegar lent a savory, velvety tang to each morsel of veal. Note: remember to bring a bottle of wine.